Wednesday: the one whole day

Two walks, one day, and they are not variations on each other.

Plaka to Adamas is seven kilometres down a slope that has been a city, a cemetery, a field, a fishing village and finally a place people come to look at. The theatre, the catacombs, the ground where the Venus was found, and Klima at the waterline are all on it. This is the archaeology walk.

Phylakopi to Sarakiniko is eight kilometres of the other thing entirely: a Bronze Age settlement at one end, the white volcanic coast at the other, and the island's raw material in between.

Pick the subject rather than the distance — they are within a kilometre of each other and both take most of a morning. You have one whole day here, so whichever you leave is genuinely left.

What the ground was doing underfoot, what colour it actually was, where you stopped — and the thing you had not expected to be looking at.

The Ground Kept Being Useful — the city that was here first, why Klima did not inherit it, and what a rock-cut tomb is good for once nobody is buried in it.