The trip · Sifnos

Sunday: the ground

Print pages 36–37

By now you know what the ground is like underfoot, which is the one thing a route description cannot tell you.

Three of the four walks give back more height than they take. The descents are longer than the climbs, which is easier on the lungs and harder on the knees, and it is worth knowing before you pick the longest one.

Only Kastro brings you back to your own door. The other three end somewhere else, so the return is part of the choice rather than an afterthought — settle how you are getting back before you set off, not when you arrive.

Water and shade help more than pace here.

Ground underfoot, wind, shade, water, where you stopped — and the one thing that changed the day.